For our Thanksgiving menus this year, we decided to call in some ringers—fantastic chefs from different corners of the country, with very different takes on American cuisine. We’re proud to share with you updated traditionalist recipes from Michael Anthony of New York City’s Gramercy Tavern, Latin-Jewish flavors from Michelle Bernstein of Miami’s Michy’s, and the tricked-out hackers’ Thanksgiving from Anthony Myint and Karen Leibowitz of San Francisco’s Mission Street Food. Plus, special guest appearances from Nathan Myhrvold and the Modernist Cuisine team, in case your holidays won’t be complete without some carbonated cranberries. Special thanks to Fishs Eddy for the awesome props and Saipua for the stunning flowers. Enjoy! – Ed.
We’re used to the technique of boiling potatoes and mashing them immediately with plenty of butter and a touch of cream, but the Mission Street Food team has a trick to ensure the mash never gets gummy. When the potatoes are nearly cooked, pull them from the hot water and cool them down, trapping the starch so there’s no risk of pastiness when you heat them up a second time and mash the hell out of them.
Guaranteed Not-Gummy Mashed Potatoes
Anthony Myint and Karen Leibowitz, Mission Street Food
Serves 8-10
5 pounds russet potatoes
½ quart whole milk
½ quart cream
½ pound butter, at room temperature
Salt and pepper, to taste
- The night before, wash, peel and cut potatoes into roughly 1-inch discs. Place in water overnight to allow some starch to leach out.
- The next day, drain the potatoes and place in a large pot of salty-tasting water. Bring up to a very gentle simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Drain potatoes and run them over with cold water, draining and changing the water at least once to cool the potatoes completely.
- Place the potatoes back in the pot with the milk and cream, bring up to simmer, and cook gently until they’re soft enough to mash (about 5 minutes of gentle simmering). Pour off and reserve the dairy.
- Add the butter and mash thoroughly, adding back the dairy if you like your potatoes softer and creamier. Taste, and adjust seasoning. Cover with plastic wrap, allowing the wrap to touch the surface of the potatoes, then cover completely with foil and keep in a warm place until it’s time to eat.
Note: If there’s left over milk and cream, it can be used to enrich and thicken sauces or soups later.
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