When Nicholas Morgenstern starts talking about ice cream, you’d better pull up a chair; this could take a while. The owner of Goat Town restaurant in the East Village is an ice cream maven, an expert, a pioneer. He challenges the established rules of ice cream making and it’s all for the good. The man creates some of the silkiest, most luscious and intense ice creams imaginable.
The nuances of his technique are many, but the gist is that instead of relying on eggs to emulsify the base into creamy submission, he uses a combination of powdered whole milk, glucose, and an immersion blender. And a little dancing never hurts. Watch the video for more.
Recipes Adapted from Nicholas Morgenstern at Goat Town
Bitter Chocolate Mint Ice Cream
Makes 1 pint
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar (2.8 ounces / 79 grams)
¾ cup heavy cream (6.7 ounces / 190 grams)
1 tablespoon light corn syrup (.7 ounces / 20 grams)
¼ teaspoon kosher salt (.03 ounces / 1 gram)
1 ½ tablespoons whole milk powder (.44 ounces / 12.5 grams)
12 leaves fresh mint, washed and dried
Scant ½ cup 61% semi-sweet chocolate (2.6 ounces / 74 grams)
¾ cup whole milk (6.7 ounces / 190 grams)
1. In a medium, heavy saucepan over medium high heat, heat the sugar, stirring with a wooden spoon or heat proof spatula, making sure to break up clumps of the dry sugar, until all of the sugar has liquefied. Cook the caramel to a rich amber color, turn the heat to low, and remove from heat while adding the cream.
2. Add the cream slowly, in a thin drizzle a little at a time, stirring constantly. If you add too much cream at once, the caramel will seize. Be careful adding cream; the caramel is really hot and will sizzle and bubble up, so stand back. Once you have finished adding the cream, return pot to low heat and add the corn syrup and the salt. Stirring occasionally, scald the mixture by bringing it to a faint simmer over low heat. Remove from heat.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk the milk powder with a small amount of the hot cream mixture, breaking down any lumps. Add just enough cream to form a smooth, emulsified paste. Add the paste to the hot cream mixture in the pot and whisk until completely combined.
4. Place the mint leaves in a blender and pour the hot cream liquid over them. Cover the blender tightly, and place a small kitchen towel on top to insulate your hands from the heat as you blend. Blend the mint until it completely breaks down and is fully incorporated into the cream mixture, about 5 to 10 minutes.
5. Place the chocolate in a large, heat-proof bowl and suspend a fine mesh sieve over the top of the chocolate in the bowl. Pour the mint-cream liquid through the sieve onto the chocolate and stir with a whisk or a spatula to melt the chocolate completely. The mixture should be smooth and shiny. Place an immersion blender inside the bowl and blend the chocolate and the mint-cream base until completely smooth, scraping the sides and bottom of the bowl with a spatula. Slowly drizzle in the milk, while continuing to use the immersion blender to ensure the mixture is smooth and emulsified.
6. Place the bowl of the chocolate ice cream base into another bowl filled with ice water and stir for 5 minutes to cool down the base. Freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Salted Cajeta Ice Cream
Makes 1 pint
1 ½ tablespoons granulated sugar (.8 ounces / 22.13 grams)
¾ tablespoons light corn syrup (.5 ounces / 15 grams)
¾ teaspoon fine sea salt (.11 ounces / 3.2 grams)
¾ cup heavy cream (6.7 ounces / 190 grams)
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon goat milk powder (.7 ounces / 19 grams)
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons cajeta or dulce de leche (3.5 ounces / 101 grams)
1 cup whole milk (8 ounces / 228 grams)
1. In a medium, heavy saucepan, combine the sugar with the corn syrup and 1 tablespoon water. Cook, over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Once the liquid reaches a boil, stop stirring and cook until golden. If your caramel gets darker in one spot faster than the rest of the pan, swirl the pan to even out the overall color.
2. Once the caramel is ready, turn the heat to low and remove the saucepan from heat. Add the cream slowly, in a thin drizzle a little at a time, stirring constantly. Be careful adding cream; the caramel is really hot and will sizzle and bubble up, so stand back. Once you have finished adding the cream, return the pot to low heat and stir in the salt. Stirring occasionally, scald the mixture by bringing it to a faint simmer over low heat. Remove from heat.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk the goat milk powder with a small amount of the hot cream mixture, breaking down any lumps. Use just enough cream to form a smooth, emulsified paste. Add the paste to the hot cream mixture in the pot and whisk until completely combined.
4. Stir in the cajeta or dulce de leche and until fully incorporated and smooth. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve into a large, heatproof bowl. Whisk in the milk, then place over a bowl filled with water and ice and chill, stirring constantly, for about 5 minutes until cold. Freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Homemade Ice Cream Cones
Makes 26 cones
3 large eggs, at room temperature
¾ cup granulated sugar (5.3 ounces / 150 grams)
1 stick butter, melted (4 ounces / 113 grams)
1 ¾ cup all-purpose flour (7.8 ounces / 221 grams)
2 teaspoons baking powder (.4 ounces / 10 grams)
1 cup whole milk (8 ounces / 228 grams)
1. Using an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the eggs and the sugar until they have doubled in volume, 2 to 3 minutes. Slowly drizzle in the melted butter and the vanilla extract and beat until the mixture is smooth. Turn the mixer off while you sift the flour and the baking powder into the egg-butter mixture. Mix it on low speed until just combined. Slowly drizzle in the milk and beat well.
2. Cook batter in a cone or pizzele maker according to the manufacturers instructions, or for about 90 seconds. Working quickly, form the hot wafers into cones. Place the newly formed cone seam-side down to cool.
Note: Batter can be used immediately or made ahead and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
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