Grand or Grilled

While there’s an unmistakable stateliness about serving individual, whole roasted poussins (think white-gloved waiters, silver cloches and yacht-club cotillions), these young birds have a rustic side, too, one best invoked by butterflying and brick-roasting. All you need are a trusty pair of kitchen shears (to snip out the backbone), a firm grip (to crack the bird so it will lay flat) and a brick wrapped in aluminum foil (to keep it flat while it cooks on the grill or in a saute pan). The weight of the brick keeps the skin in constant contact with the cooking surface, ensuring a crispy, golden exterior. Apply a spice rub to poussins for added flavor; chef Nate Appleman favors a blend of oregano, anise seed and chili flakes.